Gypsum at 300 grams per square metre spread around affected trees is probably the only solution short of extensive trenching and agricultural pipe installation. Don’t rule that out either, because ag-pipe is dirt-cheap: it’s just the labour involved that dampens the enthusiasm, but the effort is well worth the outcome.

I received a letter recently that asked about a single Fraxinus griffithii “Himalayan Ash” that was failing to thrive in a group planting and what could be done to preserve the overall appearance of the group. From my forestry experience, I can say without fear of contradiction that having measured tens of thousands of plantation forestry trees in the Himal for four years, a tree that failed to thrive in year one, never caught up. Best to remove it and replace it if possible, rather than persevere.

I’ve noticed that even the Jacarandas are not flowering at exam time this year. Wet feet have retarded their flowering by at least 3 weeks as it has with most plants in our gardens. Roses seem to be the big winners, they love all the extra (no-salt) water the heavens have provided, not to mention cooler evenings and days, that have prolonged the early flush of blooms.

If you have stored some dahlia tubers in your garden shed, don’t be in any hurry to plant them just because it’s November. The soil is far too cold and wet at present. They are best left in that shed! Even when we get some warm weather and you discover they now have elongated stems that have shot in the dark and are now 30cm long, that’s no cause for concern. They get removed at planting time or at least shortened and new fresh growths will sprout from dormant eyes on the tuber.

If you have a large tree dahlia that has got too large now is a good time to lift, divide and replant such a tuber. They will grow back very quickly to flower this autumn and given their ability to make growth in cooler soil, are not hindered by the current cold wet soils. Once replanted give them a top-dressing of about 60 grams of superphosphate in their immediate root zone.

I’ve spotted a Thrips invasion this week on my Daylilies. As soon as I get on top of the snails, in move the Thrips. Tiny cream coloured sapsuckers that are almost invisible to the naked eye and only apparent as the tell tale yellow stripes on the spent leaves. When things warm up they also attract ants to the sweet exudates they deposit on the leaves too. A single spray of the systemic Confidor brings control. I’m told garlic sprays work, but they haven’t in Annie’s cottage garden!

Speaking of garlic, mine looked all stripy a few weeks ago, so I dug a few holes nearby, suspecting poor drainage due to the high water table at present and sure enough they are slowly responding, so don’t give up. The holes aid the soil to dry out by the way.

Growers of peaches, nectarines and plums may have noticed a lot of black spotty stuff on their tree leaves recently. The avid gardener would be baffled as to what fungal condition affects both peaches and plums, but it’s “Stone fruit rust” and all the recent rain has greatly exacerbated its spread this year. A spray with Mancozeb will control it pretty easily, but it will reoccur if these humid conditions prevail. The good news is that you can continue to use Mancozeb for control, as this rust does not develop immunity to it.

If you grew a lovely display of ranunculus this spring, it’s worth saving the corms. Let the plants dry out in situ or if that’s not possible, fit them green and leave them to desiccate in a dark part of your garage that gets plenty of air circulating. A red onion bag from your local greengrocer is ideal to suspend and then when fully dried, brush the leaves off and keep the fattest corms to sow in March next year.

If you want a sensational display of roses for Christmas Day cut them back right now and in 54 days they will be in full bloom again. Feed them of course and keep them disease free too.