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South Australia - 18th March 2002

 

 



 

 

  • The Himeji Garden on South Terrace, Adelaide just opposite number 262, has been closed for about eight months for a major reconstruction, maintenance and replant, under direction of Fumio Ueda for Adelaide City Council. Now open again during daylight hours it is a fine example of an authentic Japanese garden right in our parklands. It’s tranquil, free and definitely no wedding photography permitted!
  • The most outstanding plant in there in my opinion is one of the few female Ginko biloba trees in Adelaide. The "Silver Nut" is fruiting at present and is the ritual silver nut given at nuptials in Japan. It’s on the immediate right as you enter the garden and has the distinctive maidenhair fern leaf. The species was thought to be extinct until 1949, known only up to them by palaeobotanical specimens, but was found growing in a remote Chinese monastery. It’s easily propagated from hardwood cuttings in winter or seed.
  • The Ginko biloba is used to get an extract that health stores sell as an aid to restoring your memory. The NY Institute of Medical research also concluded in a trial conducted three years ago, that an extract of Ginko biloba on 300 Alzheimer’s patients, showed one third improved their ability to remember dates and relatives’ names.
  • The Crepe Myrtle have been sensational this year in this area and any that were on offer as container grown plants in local nurseries disappeared quickly, so consider placing an order with your local nursery for the colour and form that you’d like to take delivery of in winter.
  • The Crepe Myrtle or Lagerstroemia indica now comes in a range of forms from 8 metre trees down to totally prostrate groundcovers that only grow 30cm high, as well as trailing specimens for hanging baskets. The colour range is from maroon, various pinks, mauve and lavender to cream or white. They are very hardy deciduous trees that appreciate very hot weather and a little summer watering, so as a lawn specimen in your hottest spot they will thrive.
  • Being deciduous they can even be moved in winter when dormant. I moved some pretty large ones 20 years ago to put into the walk through bird aviary at the Adelaide Zoo and they are still thriving, even resistant to the nibbling of finches and the other vagaries of birds in close quarters!
  • Cyclamen seem to be on the move at present, sending up fresh new leaves from their dormant corms. As soon as there is movement, apply a half strength water-soluble fertilizer and some organic pellets and then in a few weeks step up the nutrient to full strength.
  • If you have drifts of the tiny Cyclamen hederifolium which naturalises so easily in this area, they can be lifted now and divided, replanted and they will grow away unchecked. Select a spot that gets early morning sun and maybe dappled light in autumn and spring. Under deciduous trees seems ideal.
  • Back in Victorian times when the taking of snuff was a common pursuit of the city dandies, the crushed corm of this particular Cyclamen, was mixed with the snuff and considered a cure for male baldness! Maybe there’s a cottage industry waiting to happen here.
  • If you planted tulips in containers last year, it’s time to empty them out and either discard the bulbs, as they seldom flower well in their second year or if frugal, replant then into an out-of -the-way part of the garden and feed them during their growing season, so that in the spring of 2002 they will flower again.
  • Planting tulips or narcissus and hyacinths for that matter in containers demands that you stratify the bulbs. That means into a newspaper wrap and into the crisper of your fridge for at least 4 and up to 6 weeks before you plant them. That forces them into growth early so they flower in late winter or early spring.
  • Most importantly with bulbs in containers though is the fact that the temperature of the potting mixture is higher than in nearby soil, and the stratifying process, gets all bulbs of the same type to flower simultaneously. Failure to do so, will see some bulbs planted on the cool side, flower at least two or three weeks later than those on the warm side of you pot.