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South Australia - 11th February 2002

 

 



 

 

  • This is the time of year when the effect of the cypress borer is most easily seen. The tell tale signs are the odd branch on a cypress hedge or tree, which die back to a particular point. Usually the point at which the borer larvae that resembles a cream coloured witchetty grub, have entered the branch and eaten a hole up the branch.
  • Control of the cypress borer can be as simple as cutting or breaking the affected limbs off and so exposing the borer, so that you can either make a tasty witchetty grub soup, that tastes like peanut paste or consign the villain under foot.
  • About the only method of control for this tiny moth and its larvae is to spray with chlorpyrifos, which was unfortunately recently removed from the home garden chemical schedule, so ask your stockist what is to replace it. As of 4th Feb there was no replacement registered in SA! Chlorpyrifos is still available to primary producers to use and for licensed pest control companies.
  • Another borer that also shows up at this time of year, due to moisture stress in the tree, is the birch tree borer. It usually attacks the leading tips of a young silver birch tree, leaving a solitary dead limb in the middle of an otherwise healthy tree. Use the same control as for cypress borer.
  • This is the time to establish those Brassicas that take a long time to mature in winter. The cauliflower, broccoli, and cabbage seedlings or sow your own from seed. If you garden organically you will need to lime the soil first as they all like alkaline soil.
  • If transplanting seedlings in this hot weather, cover you new transplants with a section of shadecloth for a week, as a transition and make sure you seedlings are in a spot that will still be getting full sun in four to six moths time when you start harvesting your own cauliflowers!
  • When you see the amount of insecticide that gets sprayed on a crop of broccoli, cauliflower or cabbages, it will make you want to grow your own. In the main the caterpillars only eat the outer leaves that we discard anyhow and if you are vigilant, you can keep them pretty grub free, with a morning inspection. I find a top dressing of superphosphate at planting time, works wonders too.
  • The broccoli ‘Green Dragon’ from F1 seedlings really takes some beating for a recurrent pick broccoli variety. It seems that you have to buy seed to get known cultivars of cauliflower, since most punnet growers just use a generic cauliflower label.
  • Only try planting Brussels sprouts if you live in an area that is a frost pocket. They really need that to form tight heads, otherwise they open like flowers and it’s like eating grass! All the Brassicas like alkaline soil, so you will probably need to lime your soil first, especially if you garden organically and they all like a top dressing of superphosphate after planting or if you’ve sown seed, when they get to 10cm in height. Organic gardeners may opt for rock phosphate, phosphate dust or pigeon manure. If you use pigeon manure, wear a mask and make sure you have current TB immunisation!
  • In the flower garden plant stocks, Livingstone daisy, sweet alyssum, antirrhinum, lobelia, pansies and even petunias and marigolds, will still return a great display until April or May. If planting seedlings in this hot weather, soak the punnets in a solution of seaweed extract for 5 minutes before planting and use a section of shadecloth over them for a week to acclimatize them. It certainly cuts your losses. Water their foliage with a water-soluble fertilizer fortnightly.